1 and fig 2:įigure 1 shows a bridge that is basically just a block wall that someone cut a hole out of. The way we do that is by creating an arch of squared off rocks that all run parallel to the radius of your arch. Stone has poor tensile and shear force resistance, but excellent compressive resistance: Like 28,000 pounds/sq. Stone bridges all have arches supporting them. and you'll need a bunch, depending on your project size.)ġ0) Basic concrete tools: a trowel $5, a shovel$12, and if you want, a grouting bag $5ġ1) Concrete for the bridge foundation ($100-$150 a ton if delivered by a truck) They are your bread and butter.) ($10 for a pack )ĩ) Mortar ($5/ bag. This will be the most expensive, but you will save a ton of time cutting stone.)Ģ) Household Tools: A hammer (preferably 2 or 3 pound in weight with a beveled end), a shovel, a drill, a circular saw, screws.)ģ) Masonry chisels: (at least one 3" wide and one 1.5" wide) ($10/ea)Ĥ) A rotary hammer drill with 9/16 bit (for drilling holes used to split stone I got mine at Harbor Freight for $80)ħ) 3/4" Plywood, 1/4" plywood, 2圆 boards ($100-$150)Ĩ) Plug and feathers (also called wedge and feather: by far the most specialty item, but available online. A third option is to buy pre-cut landscaping stone from a landscaping supply company. Shot rock, purchased at your local quarry will take more time to cut, but will also work great. Preferably, use whatever stone you have on the property! It will look great and give you immense satisfaction to see your project built out of stone native to your land. The bridge I built spans roughly 10 ft and I probably used 5 tons of stone, harvested from the stream and the surrounding hillside. Assuming you have the household tools already, you're looking at $400-$800 in suppliesġ) Tons of stone (Like seriously, TONS. It's might be easier to make a PTO driven drill lol.Much of this stuff is common household tools/supplies, but if you don't already have it, all can be purchased at your local hardware store (possible exception would be plug and feather which can be purchased on. The drive-shafts usually have about 20" of axial adjustment. Then I would just lower the A-frame down (on a chain from the top hitch) so the saw would only see it's own weight as the down-force. It would have to be snug-ly toleranced so there was not much play in it to keep the saw blade nice and straight. I'd have to build an A-frame to secure to the bottom two points and to hold the gearbox with blade out at the end. I have seen 1 meter diameter diamond wet-saw blades with 1" center-holes I was thinking I could mount to the 1" round output. I found a right angle 1 3/8 6spline to 1" round shaft 1:1 gear box I could drive with a clutched PTO drive shaft. I haven't seen any PTO driven drills either. But after getting this expensive tractor I was hoping to put the 27hp PTO to good use. I thought about air-drilling also, though I am not sure how much paperwork I would have to go through to do blasting (it's probably not permitted for individuals to do that here without extensive training and licensing). My intent would be to cut and split it into more manageable sized pieces to move, while simultaneously putting a nice flat side on both pieces (to be used to make a mortared natural stone retaining wall). Has anyone seen anything like that? It would likely need to use a slip-clutch shaft drive or belt drive, just in case the blade binds. I am looking for something like that, that could run off the rear ~27HP PTO. I recently was watching a show called Jade-fever and they have a portable saw like that, that appears to run off of a generator, or is direct belt-driven. Though I realize at that thickness, the saw would not be forced around, but suspended above the boulder and allowed to cut down at it's own pace. Those cut like a 2.75in wide cut! I was thinking something like a 1/2" wide cut or even less (like a beefy diamond wet-saw blade). I was wondering if anyone has seen a rock-saw implement that would fit on an LX3310? Thus far I have only really seen the bigger wheel-saws that are mounted to skid-steers or mini-excavators and those all seem to run on high volume hydraulics. I will be wanting to move some boulders on my property that will be too large to lift and even some that are likely too large for me to drag on a sled.
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